Varnishing & Primer Coats

Pushing ahead these last few days and managed to get two coats of primer on the inside of the hull.

Each day, I have been varnishing my mast and yesterday I poured some Hempel's Wood Impreg inside the mast, which will hopefully add further protection.

I called to my local bronze plate suppliers today and they are going to cut out the plate for my mast fittings.  Once I have these fitted, I can step my mast and call my sail maker to measure up my sails.

My seats turned out quite nice, book matched.  But the process of reattaching the cutoff to the rear of the seat shows up in the grain pattern.  So far I have just put sealing coats, but I will start the varnish coats over the next few days.

I finished the edges of the seats by hand, which I have come to prefer over using my router, as it seems to give a more natural finish.

Smoothing out the inside curve with my spokeshave

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Acx plywood boat building

Acx plywood boat building

New plywood boats: thomas firth jones: 9781574090963, New plywood boats [thomas firth jones] on amazon.com. *free* shipping on qualifying offers. boatbuilding is a tirelessly evolving craft, with new techniques and. What to waterproof plywood with? - boat design forums, Waterproof plywood should be used to start with. then, overcoat with epoxy paint coat to seal the surface. there is a lot of cost difference in the base material.. The plywood for boatbuilding faq - john's nautical and, The plywood for boatbuilding faq version 1.1 11/9/96. edited by craig o'donnell send corrections and additions to me. about the faq. this is a basic introduction to. How to prepare marine plywood for a boat deck | ehow, How to prepare marine plywood for a boat deck. using marine plywood as the final deck surface aboard a vessel is a viable alternative to many other products.. Plywood - wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, Plywood is a sheet material manufactured from thin layers or "plies" of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to. Questions: plywood boatbuilding - build your own boat, Q: can i use nails in place of screws for fastening plywood planking and decking? a: as a general rule on the framed plywood boat, because planking panels carry.

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New plywood boats: thomas firth jones: 9781574090963, New plywood boats [thomas firth jones] on amazon.com. *free* shipping on qualifying offers. boatbuilding is a tirelessly evolving craft, with new techniques and. What to waterproof plywood with? - boat design forums, Waterproof plywood should be used to start with. then, overcoat with epoxy paint coat to seal the surface. there is a lot of cost difference in the base material.. The plywood for boatbuilding faq - john's nautical and, The plywood for boatbuilding faq version 1.1 11/9/96. edited by craig o'donnell send corrections and additions to me. about the faq. this is a basic introduction to. How to prepare marine plywood for a boat deck | ehow, How to prepare marine plywood for a boat deck. using marine plywood as the final deck surface aboard a vessel is a viable alternative to many other products.. Plywood - wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, Plywood is a sheet material manufactured from thin layers or "plies" of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to. Questions: plywood boatbuilding - build your own boat, Q: can i use nails in place of screws for fastening plywood planking and decking? a: as a general rule on the framed plywood boat, because planking panels carry.

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Looking for Free wooden boat plans australia

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Fitting out

I managed a further coat of varnish and also a final coat of interior hull paint.  In my last post I mentioned having used 2.5 liters of varnish so far.  I might have be wrong!  (it's been known.....)  As when I went looking for the second 2.5 liter can of varnish it was nowhere to be found...and now I have a sneaky feeling that I might have used that too.  5 liters of varnish for two seats, spars, transom and coamings (is that possible??) or else I have hidden the second can somewhere safe...where it can't be found!  No matter, I have had enough of varnishing for the time being and I am inclined to leave the existing coats harden up for a while, maybe months, before the final coat - if there ever is such thing as a final varnish coat!

My metal polishing kit arrived and so that provided an interesting interlude to paint and varnish.  I set up my polishing station and set to work on the bronze plate and some of the bronze parts.

Home made mast components, polished and ready for assembly.

I the set about fitting various bronze parts which I have been accumulating over the past while.  It's quite a pleasant task finally sorting out and fixing these to the hull - certainly feels like you are on the home straight.

Here you can see the pad eye being installed on the boom.  JB calls for long screws and so I chose 1 1/4" #10's and the solid boom provided a secure attachment.   Other parts were more awkward to fit which called for more drastic measures:- my �7 90deg drill attachment from Lidl finally shone!

I needed to drill pilot holes under the side decks to fit the jam cleats for the jib sheets, which are located just over the side lockers.  I sited these cleats on backing pads as they seemed to be a bit lost otherwise.

The plans describe options to lead the jib sheets over the coaming, but suggest that they may wear the edge of the coaming - seems very likely  - or you can alternatively drill obtuse holes in the coaming to allow the sheets run more directly to their cleats.

The jib is self tending and the jib sheets run through blocks attached to the foredeck.  So after a false start (drilling holes and missing the supporting  deck stringer), I installing two strap eyes, onto which are attached small jib sheet block with small bronze shackles.

Here you can see the mast partner and halyard cleats attached to the forward deck beam.  They took large 3" #14 screws mounted on backing plates to ensure the halyards clear the nosing on the deck.   Also in this picture you can see the brass angle stock which needs to be drilled and threads tapped secure the side seats.

Once I had the locker doors installed, I noticed that subsequent fitting of the sole boards became impossible as the boards were catching on the lower ledge of the aft locker trim.  So I took the temporary option of removing the door, fitting the sole boards and refitting the door.  Not sure that is the ideal solution, but I am reluctant to cut them short to allow for easy removal.  That being said, it's not a huge job to remove 4 screws and take out the rear door assembly.

Seats and sole boards installed

You can see where the lower sill on the rear locker assembly reduces the space to install the soleboards.

My next task was to install the traveler on the transom.  The plans call for a 3/8" bronze rod of x lenght (can't recall dimensions off hand) and then screwed into the bronze base fittings.  However the fittings I have seem different to those JohnB used on Red Sky which results in a longer assembly.  So I am wondering if there is any merit in having a longer traveler bar.  And while on the topic, I am not at all sure of the merits of a traveler system without a mechanism to control the main sheet position.

Here's a photo which shows roughly where the traveler will sit on the transom:-

Traveler sitting approximately in its final position

The picture also shows up the orange peel and runs of my varnish work but I am stupidly optimistic that my next coat of varnish will absolve all!

Next I need to redraw the DWL on the hull and do a final exterior hull paint coat and antifoul paint.

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Transom

As I write this, time has passed so thankfully I can't recount the entire fiasco that was building my transom!  You see I had some nice 2 1/2" by 9" timbers which I thought I could resaw and get two board out of one.

That seemed to work fine, although I wasn't convinced that the thickness of the two boards was uniform. No matter that was what planers are for...except my planer was only an 8" model.  So armed with my new #6 foreplane, I went about flattening the boards.  I had read in John's book that this was good practice/exercise, so fired up with these encouraging thoughts, I set about creating heaps of wood shavings.  Man I was having a ball - yes I was a real boat builder at last - none of that modern noisy machinery, I could see myself swelling with pride as I recounted how I had hand planed that lovely highly polished transom to the admiring onlookers...

Well, after I had one side nicely flattened, I noticed that the board was beginning to warp, and before long I had the distinct impression that I was carving a wooden propeller rather than a flat transom!  Moreover, I had neglected to keep tabs with the width and so I ended up with boards too thin for the finished transom.  So out with the bandsaw again, and this time I laminated a new piece onto the original board and invested in a new 12" planer, and voila - a (reasonably) perfectly straight transom of the correct thickness. phew...

I elected to use biscuits joints as I had a biscuit jointer and had reasonable confidence in my ability to accurately joint the boards.  I had visions of routing out splines etc., but wasn't convinced I would get the accuracy I needed.

I did however elect to use the technique which John describes in his book to get two boards perfectly edge matched using one baton and a flush trim router.  It worked a treat and so hopefully the glue lines will not be too noticeable when the transom is finally varnished.

My next step was to mark out the shape of the transom onto the jointed boards.  This was trickier than I had imagined.  John has supplied a fully developed transom in full size scale in the plans - for one half.  So one half of my transom will be correct at least!  Flipping the plans as John describes in GLWB and pricking the the other half of the transom boards using the existing holes proved more difficult, so I erred on the side of caution and cut to the outside of the line.  Later I made up a large "compass" and used it to ensure than my marks were symmetrical on both sides. With hindsight, I would take this approach again, as I was able to take accurate measurements from the FSP and transfer to both sides of my transom.

Carving the bevel on the transom was quite tricky.  Not having any prior experience of reading the plans, it was not entirely clear to me how the bevel should finish.  I had read elsewhere on Dave's SS 12.5 blog that he had difficult cutting the notches on the transom, so he recommended waiting until it is affixed onto the jig and you can fair out the bevels using batons.  I had elected to take the option of a curved transom rather than notching the transom.  This means using Dory gains at the transom.  I did take the initial bevels off using the bandsaw, as John describes, which I thought was quite brave of me! But as luck would have it I didn't screw up and so then I finished off the bevel with my block plane, spokeshave and finally Stanley Surform.  I'd love to relate how I expertly carved the wood with my spokeshave, but to be honest, it only made a horrible scratching noise as I dragged and pushed it over the the timber, so my Surform won the day!

Subsequently, I spent some time researching how to use (and tune up) a spokeshave, and now can manage to get it to shave really nicely - certainly a tool worth persevering with until you get the knack.

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Real Plans to build a pt boat

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This is Wooden boat building boston

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Fiberglass powerboat plans

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Boat plans for amateurs, Boat plans for power, sail and small boats. free boat plans. kits and supplies plus the best boat building technical support.. Steel boats, steel boat kits, steel boat plans, steel and, Steel boat kits, steel boat plans, sailboats, power boats, aluminum boat plans, bruce roberts authorized designs and books,aluminium boat kits,aluminum,metal boat. Fiberglass boat repair for the diy'er, everything you need, Learn everything you need to know to repair your fiberglass boat right here! this site is dedicated to providing boat owners with the knowledge to make high-quality.

Boat kits and plans - welcome to fiberglass supply, Catalog page of boat kits and plans, includes stitch and glue type boats, paddleboards, and cedar strip surfboard kits.. Fiberglass construction-boatdesign - boat designs, These are all of the glen-l boats that are designed specifically for one-off fiberglass construction. some can also be built with other methods and if so, will be. Nice canoe 16 - bateau.com - boat plans online since 1993, Boat plans for power, sail and small boats. free boat plans. kits and supplies plus the best boat building technical support.. Boat plans for amateurs, Boat plans for power, sail and small boats. free boat plans. kits and supplies plus the best boat building technical support.. Steel boats, steel boat kits, steel boat plans, steel and, Steel boat kits, steel boat plans, sailboats, power boats, aluminum boat plans, bruce roberts authorized designs and books,aluminium boat kits,aluminum,metal boat. Fiberglass boat repair for the diy'er, everything you need, Learn everything you need to know to repair your fiberglass boat right here! this site is dedicated to providing boat owners with the knowledge to make high-quality.

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Why you will lose so much weight: The 4 powerful phases of the diet

Phase 1: Lasts for 7 days.

This part of the plan is meant to detoxify the body and help you lose weight like it’s needed “yesterday” as Brian says. 5-10 pounds is what the expectation is here.

The first day you’ll be eating 4 meals, 3-4 hours apart and they are only going to be vegetables. It’s tough, but it’s only going to be for one day.

The next 3 days you’ll add protein foods into the diet and alternate them, eating 2 meals out of the 4 with protein and the other 2 will be just vegetable.

The last 3 days of the diet will involve adding proteins to all 4 meals which means no more alternating. Every meal you eat will be mixed.

Sample foods:

Vegetables: Beets, carrots, broccoli, tomato, spinach, onions, peppers, mushrooms, kale, cabbage, aritchoke and more.

These vegetables can be steamed, broiled or microwaved.

Proteins: Chicken, beef, eggs, fish and other related foods which have protein (list is provided inside diet plan)

You can ONLY drink water during these 7 days.

Phase 2: Lasts only 1 day

You’re going to be fasting on day 8. To make this easier to deal with, Brian recommends having your last meal at night, so you can sleep through a large portion of the fast and eat the next night.

Phase 3: Lasts 3 days

This phase is the one which interested me most. You’re going to be eating a high fat/low calorie/low carb diet and ironically with what Brian explains and the studies he cites, you are actually going to lose a lot of weight.

You are told to eat anywhere from 1,200 calories (women) and 1,500 (men) a day in which 80% of it consists of fat. You are allowed to add anything to your food that adds fat. Mayonnaise, avacado, bacon, eggs. This is all allowed.

Will this make you fat? Not even close. In fact, you will lose a lot of it. Brian makes it clear the only fat you should fear is trans fat and this is what you have to stay away from.

One study explained in this section talks about 4 groups of people who were on a 1,000 calorie diet. One group only ate proteins, one only ate fats, one only carbs and the last one was a regular diet.

The irony is that the group which was on the high fat diet lost the most weight. And remember, we’re talking 1,000 calories each.

The key is to keep carbs to a minimal. You are allowed up to 30 grams of carbs per day if you can’t hold on. There are also health benefits of a high fat diet.

Phase 4: Lasts until day 21 (9 days)

This is the easiest part of the diet. All it really focuses on is just eating under your BMR on a daily basis. There are different “aggression levels” during this phase with aggression being how much weight you want to lose.

Depending on how much weight you want to keep losing, you’ll eat under your BMR anywhere from 15%-30% meaning if your BMR was 2,000 calories a day, 15% would mean you could eat only 1,700/day.

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Stitch and glue flats boat plans

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Stitch and glue - wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, History . the stitch and glue method was developed by woodwork teacher ken littledyke for the manufacture of canoes, later sold as the 'kayel' in plan and kit form. Stitch and glue kits | glen-l boat plans - build your own boat, Stitch and glue kits are a must for building our stitch and glue boats. these kits include copper stitching wire, screws and boat nail fasteners (if required), silica. Diy stitch and glue epoxy boat building marine epoxy tips, Stitch and glue boat building with marine epoxy, fiberglass cloth, and plywood getting started.

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The 3-Week Diet and Exercise Plan: How to Start

Attending or going to a big event in three weeks’ time and finding that the dress that you own does not fit you calls for a 3-week diet and exercise plan.  For those who find themselves not ready for summer (which has already started in many countries), then this could also be the diet and exercise plan that they need.  There have been a lot of people who have found that the 3-week diet and exercise plan is the perfect “cramming” that they have ever been on.  It has helped a lot of people lose weight, especially when they do not have enough time to prepare for a big event.

In the 3-week plan, people could still try to make good eating and exercise habits and thus, lose weight.  Many people believe that they really need to make good habits during this crucial time so that they could get ready for their respective events (or for summer).  Almost everybody wants to become prepared when a big event comes and be able to flaunt their curves.  It could take a little bit of hard work and determination in order to be successful with the 3-week diet and exercise plan. 

Many people go into fad diets when they need to lose weight fast, but with the 3-week diet and exercise plan, they are actually helping their bodies to transition faster without exposing themselves to undue stress.  There are actually some dieticians who recommend the substituting of various foods into ones that are lesser in calories but keep the people feeling fuller than normal.  Examples for such would include ditching usual fare for fresh fruits and vegetables, natural foods that are unprocessed, as well as other types of raw food.  This is usually what people eat during the first week in the diet. 

So, how do people start on the 3-week diet and exercise plan?  One of the first things to make a schedule that plots all of the food and the exercise routines to go into for 3 weeks.  Since this is relatively a short period, people are expected to go on high-intensity workouts and not just simple exercises.  There are standard diet plans that are on the internet that people could easily make use of. They could even swap the meals according to what they want.  The 3-week diet and exercise plan focuses on the consumption of fruits and vegetables and eating small meals frequently. 

For those who really want to lose weight in 3 weeks, then the 3-week diet and exercise plan could be the best thing for them. People have to be extra careful with the portions that they eat.  They also have to focus on substituting simple sugars with the more complex ones.  People also have to drink a lot of water so that they do not have to deal with dehydration during the entire duration of the 3-week diet and exercise plan.  People have to be extra diligent with their diet and exercise so that they really lose weight by the end of the 3rd week.

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One step forward...two back

Today I spent removing the various dry fitted components off the hull - forefoot filler, keel filler and outer stem.

I roughly shaped up the deadwood to match both the lead keel and the boats keel.  It looks ok but the angle of the deadwood where it supports the lead keel seems more acute than that of the lead keel - so I am not altogether sure if I have to do quite a bit more trimming off the "top" of the deadwoods.


More curiously, the keel filler which goes between the keel and the lead keel is curved, having been made by laminating to the shape of the outer keel on the hull.  The corresponding part on the lead keel is however straight - so I presume I have to plane down the keel filler straight   Fair enough...but on closer inspection, that will mean in fact removing all of the keel filler in the centre to attain a straight line from one end of the filler to the other.  That in itself is probably not such a huge issue, but it does make me wonder if the keel on my boat is more curved that the designer planned...

Here's the keel filler - it looks like a tuning fork!

Keel Filler

Keel filler sitting on its position on top (underneath) the lead keel

When I took this off the keel and placed it on the lead keel you can see that there is quite a mis-match so I am pondering what is the best solution.  The gap at the ends is deeper than the section of the keel filler.  Alternatively I suppose I can build up the shape in the keel filler by adding new "wedges" to flatten out one side of the keel filler. 

Am I over-thinking this?  Comments Please!

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Coamings Installed

Finally I have installed the coamings and I declare to quite pleased with the result!

If you look closely you can see where I re-modeled the plank of 10" sapele so that I could get the deck curve out of the smaller stock - otherwise I would have needed a 14" wide board.  Even though you can see the different wood grain, the fact that both sides are symmetrical makes it quite attractive - at least to my eyes.

Once I had both side of the coamings laminated, I decided to glue both on at the same time so that I could adjust each coaming where they join at the front and ensure a symmetric fit.

Here you can see where I had jammed two lenghts of 2x1 on top of each coaming close to the front join up to the workshop ceiling in order to give me sufficient downward pressure.

I also re-purposed the clamping cauls which JohnB describes in his instructions for the fore deck.  I clamped these sideways at the front of each coaming and then placed a further clamp on them to pull the coamings together at the joint.  It seemed to work fine and allowed for finer adjustments during the final glue-up.

It's a lot of clamps but it worked out fine in the end.

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Progress on Coamings

John Brooks, SS designer, did warn that the coamings are the most difficult part pf the boat.  He's right! John has issued further detailed instructions on how to make the coamings.  The process is to first laminate the two halves to each other, but not glued to the boat.  Then remove, and lay and epoxy on the dynel cloth onto the deck.  Once set, the finished coamings are attached.

On my previous post you can see how I grafted some additional material to the end of one side of the board. The glue up on the plank turned out fine, although had I planed the board before glue up I might have been able to match up the pattern better.  As it happened while I grafted on a piece from the same end the board, it did cross over a very attractive grain pattern.  Nonetheless, the joint was clean and tight and I think it looks just fine.

I then ran the board through my thicknesser before resawing.  Although I needed 4 x 1/4" thick boards from the board which measured 2"+, it's still a challenge to resaw this accurately.  First I resawed into half  - which went reasonably well but even the smallest wavering of the bandsaw blade eats into your usable stock.  I then thicknessed again before final resawing into the 1/4" boards.  As it happened I ended up with slightly different board widths but the sum of the parts equaled the required 1/2".


The final thicknessing was done with both 1/4" boards held together so that I was able to accurately thickness down to the 1/2" dimension.  Lots of noise, dust and helping hands from my wife and daughter!

The following day, Brian and I attempted to bend the boards into place.  

It went reasonably well until crack! - one board developed a slight crack where it meets the deck.  JohnC who is also building a Somes Sound did warn me about this and suggested using a layer of glass cloth epoxied in between the laminates.  So we planed back the inside of the laminates for about 5" either side of the stress point and epoxied a light glass cloth into the planed area.  Once sanded it was completely flush with the rest of the board and made for a strong and flexible solution.

You can see in this next photo the board with the glass epoxied into it where it meets up with the foredeck - an obvious stress point.  This is just one laminate - the other half, which also has a glass cloth insert, will cover this entirely.

We had to make up several clamp extensions, as none of my F-Clamps reached more than 6" and the coaming needs clamping in areas wider than this.  They are crude but effective - just two lengths of timber separated by a block and wired together, over which a regular clamp is used to apply pressure through the clamp extension legs. We ct a 15deg bevel on one side of the leg, which ensures that the coaming was evenly clamped to the side deck filler.

Once we had one half reasonably fitting, we cut down the edges to size using a batten to create fair lines.  This reduced the width of the board making it easier to bend.  The epoxied glass cloth worked really well and no sign of crack appearing at the stressed areas.   We then cut out the second laminate from the first board, making sure to continue the bevels at the transoms and foredeck - the two halves are not identical.

The glue up went smoothly and the subsequent fitting was easier than when the boards were dry as the epoxy operates as a lubricant initially before it starts to kick.

Here you can see Brian admiring the motley collections of clamps!

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Floors Glue Up & shaping sheer clamp

One small sentence in the instructions couldn't take three days...could it?!!  But yep, gluing in the floors is quite time consuming so by the time I had refined their fitting and drilled for the screws, it was quite a slow procedure.

Each screw needed three separate drill bits to make the pilot holes, 12mm for the counter sunk portion, 6mm for the clearance and 4mm for the pilot in the keelson  - previous short cuts resulted in broken screws, swear word and general self flagellation.....

Here you can see the floors being epoxied to the hull.  A large screw secures it at the trunk down into the keelson, while further smaller screws are driven up from outside the hull at the plank laps

into the floors.  The "fillers" are screwed into the keelson acting as spacer between the floors.  On top of this sandwich a truck cleat is secured, which makes for a tight integrated structure allowing the lead keels weight to be distributed over the hull and tying in the centre board trunk structure.

Here you can see the fillers screwed and glued into between the floors before the trunk log cleat is assembled on top.  I made wood plug to fill the screw holes, which were chiseled flush before attaching the trunk log cleat.

The finished result cooking under the infrared panel to counter the unseasonable arctic weather we are experiencing.  

Meanwhile, I made up a camber template to shape the sheers and the top of the bulkhead.  The camber is specified as a 2" rise over 6'.  

 This defines the shape of the side decks and I assume will impact also on the angle of the coaming.  It looks like in my exuberance to plane the sheers, I may have over flattened the starboard sheer-clamp near stations 12 and 14, so I may have to glue back in some filler wood and re-plane before fitting the side deck...should matter as no one will ever know..unless they read it here!

I found it a good idea to mark the topside of the template as it is easy to have it the wrong side up....which might have been the reason for my flattened sheer-clamp!!

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